TRANSIT PDX SHIRT
DESIGN OVERVIEW
How could I create an insulated shirt that will keep the cyclist warm, dry, and not overheat during their bike commuting, and still look professional?
For this project I was inspired to make a mid-layer hybrid shirt that could be worn bike commuting and also stylish for the office or the bar. Using a wool shirt to pattern and inspiration from a technical jacket, this design is a cross between those two different designs.
I am proud that my work was selected for display during the College of Design 2023 accreditation audit by the National Association of Schools of Art and Design.
Course: Graduate Soft Goods Technology
When: December 2022 (3 weeks)
Role: Designer, Sewer
Process: Pattern replication, Material sourcing, Prototype, Testing, Presentation critique
Tools: Industrial sewing machine, Industrial serger, Illustrator, InDesign
PRODUCT GOAL
How could I create an insulated shirt that will keep the cyclist warm, dry, and not overheat during bike commuting, and still look professional?
DESIGN PROCESS
Determining the New Design
Starting with the Patagonia wool long sleeve that I already owned, I wanted a new design that was improved for my daily bike commute and durable for the rainy and cool Pacific Northwest weather. I also drew inspiration from the bike commute market and looked at the design features of the Rapha Insulation Overshirt.
New Design Features
Product Name: Transit PDX Shirt
Material: Change from wool to nylon ripstop
Thermal Insulation: Add front chest insulation
Storage: Add zippered chest pocket
Comfort: Add pocket hand-warmer
Nylon Ripstop
Zippered Chest Pocket
Insulation Layer
Inspiration Garment
Brand: Rapha
Product Name: Men’s Insulated Overshirt
Fabric: 50gsm outer nylon shell with DWR, Polartec Alpha
Price: $205
Reference Garment
Brand: Patagonia
Product Name: Long-Sleeved Wool Shirt
Fabric: 6.9 oz blend 60% recycled wool, 30% recycled polyester, 10% nylon
Price: $129
Prototype Process
Step 1: Pattern Making
Make pattern pieces from the Patagonia wool long sleeve.
Step 2: Cut Pattern Pieces
Cutting the pattern pieces.
Step 3: Sewing + Assembly
Sewing the chest pocket, drop pockets, and sleeves. Used top stitch and serge stitch.
Step 4: Fit Check
Confirm final fit and pattern piece accuracy
TECH PACK
FINAL PROTOTYPE
Transit PDX Shirt
Features & Benefits
Materials
Nylon ripstop, Polyester batting insulation, Fleece lined pockets, Plastic snaps and 6” zipper
Storage
3 pockets, 1 zippered chest, 2 drop-in waist pockets
Thermal Regulation
Hand warming pockets, Insulated front chest with lining, Non insulated back and sleeves for breathability, Wind and water resistant
TRANSIT PDX SHIRT
FUNCTIONAL FOR BIKE COMMUTING
PROFESSIONAL & STYLISH
DESIGN VALIDATION
Testing Conditions
40º F, 10 mph, 1 mile commute
Core was warm and did not overheat
Poured water on sleeve, did not soak through
Challenges
Slippery and shiny nylon material
First time sewing many construction features
Difficulty sewing consistent pocket sewing with grid fleece
Final Presentation Critique
At the final critique my professor did not recognize my garment. I wore it as part of my presentation and she could not tell that it was homemade. Part of the guest critique was that I should have added an additional seam allowance for the drop pockets as the interior seam was exposed. In addition I received feedback to use a pocket template for a more polished product, and to use wax paper to help with slippery fabric materials.
Overall I am pleased with how the final product turned out for my first designed garment. If I were to make this again I would make pocket templates and have a more finished hem for the drop pockets. I am proud that my work was selected for display during the College of Design, 2023 accreditation audit by the National Association of Schools of Art and Design.